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Sage Travelers

Trek to the Sunshine State: Everglades

When our trip to Machu Picchu was canceled due to the torrential rains and the ensuing destruction of the railroad to Aguas Calientes, Alexander and I were left itching to go somewhere WARM.

Ever the history buff, Alexander wanted to see St. Augustine, the oldest continuously occupied city in the US, established in 1565. I was leaning more toward something like Disney World, so Orlando, Florida fit the bill perfectly. This is a good time for travel bargains.  Traveling in the off-peak season is a benefit of being retired and we packed a lot into two weeks. Ironically, we did not encounter the warm weather we craved, but we did have fun. It was a great impromptu trip.

Our first weekend took us to the Everglades. An air boat ride provided excellent viewing, especially birds and alligators. The swampy Everglades are loaded with interesting flora and fauna, and happily, the cold weather meant NO MOSQUITOES.


Spanish moss is an air plant (
epiphyte), which means it does not use its host plant for food.  It has no roots but attaches to the host using stems. The stems hang down from the host tree branches and collect moisture and nutrients from the air.


Lush Spanish moss was used to stuff pillows and mattresses in the "olden days." It has a soft, spongy texture.


Beware of lurking alligators, not always easy to spot in the murky waters...

We were greatly entertained with the bird-watching. Here is a Purple Gallinule (aka swamp chicken)...

... and a Great Egret on her nest. These egrets nest above alligator sanctuaries to guard against predators reaching their nests.


Any babies that fall out of the nest become alligator food, but the adults were often seen cautiously venturing close to the 'gators.

Whee.... "Look, ma, I can surf!"

An alert Great Blue Heron...


... beautiful!

Here is a sweet-faced female Boat-tailed Grackle. The males are black.


A Black-crowned Night Heron...


A Snowy Egret getting feisty with another...

These homely Black Vultures have an important role in the eco-system...


They are the "clean-up crew."


Turtles basking in the sun.

Our air boat was similar to this one, seen moving away from the dock.


More on Florida to follow... see upcoming post.

~ Lisa


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Le Cirque is in Town!

Cirque du Soleil, that is. Last Tuesday, Alexander and I treated ourselves to Cirque du Soleil's OVA which is currently performing in San Jose through March 21. Check out their website for more information and tickets. The following photos are from their website as they do not allow flash photography. It was definitely worth the cost of the tickets.

The extravaganza takes place in the Grand Chapiteau (Big Top) which seats ~2,500. Here it is being set up, a process that takes several days.


The performers wear fabulous costumes, like this "ant"...



...and a grasshopper. The music and choreography were
superb throughout the two and a half hour show.



We were mesmerized by acts such as the slack wire and amazed to see the extent to which the human body can contort!


Viva le cirque!

~ Lisa

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Las Capuchinas, Antigua, Guatemala

A visit to Las Capuchinas or the Capuchin Convent, in the colonial city of Antigua, Guatemala, takes you back to an era of surprising customs and impressive architecture. The monument consists of restored sections that house offices and a museum, and other areas that are protected ruins. The entrance fee of ~ $4 USD is well worth the experience.

Las Capuchinas was founded in 1725, and completed in 1736 as a convent for the cloistered Capuchin nuns from Spain.  It was designed by Diego de Porres, a well-know colonial-era architect.
Las Capuchinas was home to 28 novices, most of whom were banished to the cloistered life by their families, often for defiance, an intolerable offense in a time when a woman's role in society was defined by strict mores.

The novices lived in tiny cells arranged in a unique circular configuration. Yes, I asked... the cells had "toilets" similar to the outhouse concept, but made of stone. Waste was flushed by water from an underground spring emanating from the surrounding highlands.  In a nearby bath chamber, heated water was routed to large stone tubs where the nuns would bathe while clothed in special garments.

Unlike other Catholic orders, Capuchin novitiates were not required to pay a dowry to enter the sisterhood, but they had to relinquish all their worldly possessions. Once they entered the cloistered life, they also renounced all contact with the outside world, not even with their families. Their days were devoted to prayer and meditation but they used their sewing skills to generate income for operating the convent.

Below the circular courtyard is a strange subterranean chamber with acoustics that permit certain notes to resonate with amazing clarity. It is thought this eerie chamber was used for special prayer sessions, but its exact use is unknown.

From the second level, one can access the nuns' choir loft which gives a good view of the nave of the chapel, now in ruins. The choir loft was built so those attending mass could hear the nuns sing, but they would never be able to see them.

Also from the second level, on a clear day you get an excellent view of the twin volcanoes, Fuego (to the left) and Acatenango. During our visit, the cloud cover obscured the volcanoes but I did get a good photo of Cerro de le Cruz, which looks down on the city.

Having been rebuilt after the earthquake of 1751, the convent was abandoned in 1773 after another severe temblor. The Capuchin nuns then relocated to Guatemala City, taking with them all religious artifacts and anything in the convent that could be transported.

Las Capuchinas is one of many monuments in beautiful Antigua, Guatemala. Antigua is was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979.


~ Lisa

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The Elephant Seals of Año Nuevo

On a recent Monday, Alexander and I, along with our friend Richard, drove over to Año Nuevo on the southern coast of San Mateo County and site of largest mainland breeding colony of the northern elephant seal.  

We had reservations for the 9:15 a.m. walk but arrived early and were able to join the 9:00 a.m. group.
Tickets are $7 and available online. The day was sunny and clear, something we appreciated given the many rainy days we've had this year.  To view the colony, one must make the 3 mile walk in a small group accompanied by a docent. Our docent was well-informed and presented information about the elephant seals in an interesting manner.

From the Visitor's Center you can see the point (at right in the photo below). Our hike will take us to the beach on the other side of the point to observe the mainland colony up close.  Beyond the point, on a nearly island, another large colony makes its home. That area is not accessible to the public but can be viewed in the Visitor's Center via a strategically-placed videocam on the island.

Elephant seal females arrive at Año Nuevo in late December and form "harems" on the beaches. Within a week, the females, ranging in in size from 10-12 feet and weighing 1200 to 2000 pounds, give birth to a pup weighing about 75 pounds. They nurse the pup for only 25-28 days.

The males are easy to spot because of their pendulous noses. Younger males have smaller noses but the older, "alpha" males have a huge proboscis which they use for LOUD roaring, especially when competing to mate. The males will grow to about 16 feet and weigh over 5,000 pounds.

This younger "beta" male is feeling his oats...

...and decides to challenge a sleeping alpha male.

But Beta quickly retreats when he sees the size of Alpha (right)! Check out Alpha's nose.

After nursing on the mother's rich milk for about 28 days, the pups weigh 250-350 pounds. The mothers abandon the pups and head back to sea after mating. By mid-March, most of the adults have left and only the pups remain at Año Nuevo. They spend their days in the sea learning to swim and evading predators such as sharks.

The females come into season about 24 days after giving birth and will mate before heading out to sea for several months of feeding.
Adult elephant seals will return to Año Nuevo in the spring and summer months for their annual "catastrophic" molt where they abruptly shed their old skin and fur.

This is a great day-trip, and is especially educational for students.

~ Lisa

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Visiting NYC in winter

can be dicey. Today, there are blizzard warnings in the Big Apple. Fortunately, my sister and I enjoyed beautiful winter weather during our recent week-long visit. I guess timing is everything.

Since we were kids, my wonderful sister has always shared... so it's not surprising she even shares her grandkids with me. She and I spent a lovely week enjoying time with her youngest grandson, my grandnephew, who just turned one. Needless to say, we were delightfully entertained for the week, did some sightseeing and lots of walking.

One new place I'd never been was the Tenement Museum. The one-hour tour was interesting although somewhat expensive at $20. However, the fees benefit this non-profit organization dedicated to preserving the history of NYC's immigrants.

On our next trip maybe we'll make it to the New Museum...


or try the cappuccino...


and buy more mushrooms.

We might even run into Gizmo again.


Maybe we'll drive a Smart car...


and see the sights.

We could get a fix of Bon Chon chicken...


and squirrel watch in Stuyvesant Town...



or visit a school.

But best of all, we'll enjoy the people!

~ Lisa

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Whale Tales

Some of the best experiences are in our own back yard, but why is it we don’t take advantage of them or when we do, it’s because we have visitors? We have to work on this now that we're retired.


In mid-January Alexander and I took our daughters who were visiting from Idaho on a whale watching excursion in Monterey Bay. I had always thought it would be very expensive but found that it's only about $35 for a trip that took almost 3 hours.

On the way out to sea, we passed California Sea Lions huddling for warmth on the jetty.



Sea otters are especially entertaining and come very close to the pier.



Among the many sea birds we saw, my favorites are the prehistoric-looking pelicans.

This gray whale put on a show between our boat and our companion boat.


The biologist on board had a sense of humor, promising we'd get some "tail" and we sure did!


A large school of Risso's dolphins were an amazing sight.



An up-close shot of  Risso's dolphins.

Afterward, we enjoyed a great sea-food dinner on the wharf. Yes, we need to explore close to home more often.

~ Lisa

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The Journey Up the Central American Coast to Mexico

After Costa Rica, our cruise stopped daily at a port in a different country.

San Juan de Sur, Nicaragua
On Thursday, we arrived in Nicaragua. The infrastructure of Nicaragua is underdeveloped, so it is disconcerting to see never ending trash and shoddy construction, even at resorts considered to be more upscale. But there an abundance of beautiful landscapes and friendly people. We have decided to come back some day and take a more leisurely trek through Nicaragua to fully appreciate what it has to offer.

Coming into the port of San Juan del Sur, Nicacragua.

We stopped at a resort on Lake Nicaragua, the third-largest lake in the world. Here you can see the clouds falling over the cone of the volcano, like icing on a cake.

The lake was calm and the weather very hot. The lake waters offer refuge for many species of birds and assorted wildlife.

Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala

On Friday we had an entire day in Guatemala. Puerto Quetzal is clean, bustling, and orderly.

Being very familiar with Guatemala because of previous travel, we opted for an "on your own" shuttle to Antigua where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch with our friends from Posada La Merced. This is Adelaida with her son Daniel, whom we've watched grow since he was a four-month old babe wrapped in his mother's rebozo. Daniel is now 4 and will soon be starting school.

At sunset, we set sail for Mexico, our pilot boats guiding the Island Princess.


Huatulco, Mexico
On Saturday, we docked in Huatulco, Mexico. We were told that Huatulco is similar to the Acapulco of the 50s, and it is certainly benefiting from tourism. This really didn't mean much to me until I saw Acapulco. Real Estate development is booming here, and there is a concerted effort to attract Canadians... the prices of many condos are advertised in Canadian dollars on huge banners and there are frequent weekly flights from Toronto.


Huatulco is spread out over a 20-mile coastline that encompasses about seven bays, the principal ones being Bahia de Santa Cruz, Bahia Chahue, and Bahia Tangolunda.

The port has a strong military presence as there is a Mexican naval base nearby.


Looking down on our ship from the overlook at the Huatulco National Preserve.

A little bird told me a tip would be appreciated.


Alexander opted for an "eco-walk" and I for a trip into town, where my group was treated to a lunch of typical Oaxacan fare. Here is the restaurant's mascot.

This woman is wearing one of the typical costumes of Oaxaca.


Acapulco, Mexico
Early Sunday morning, we arrived in Acapulco, our final destination. It was a new experience disembarking in a foreign country. We were not able to get off the ship until about 9:30 a.m., since priority is given to folks who must catch a flight out of town. So there was a line (not too bad) to get off the ship, a line to go through customs once we had our bags, a line to get a taxi, and once at the hotel, the longest line of all to register, a process that took longer than getting off the ship and the taxi ride to the hotel. Alexander got into the "preferred customer" line with only one person ahead of him and I got in the long line with six representatives helping register guests. We made it to the front at the same time.

This was my first visit to Acapulco, and possibly my last. The city is so darn HUGE, with over 2 million inhabitants, not counting thousands of tourists.  The infrastructure is clearly being stretched beyond the limits. There was far too much trash and filth on the streets, even in the "exclusive" Zona de Oro where we stayed. The noxious sewer gases emanating from some vents do not add to the ambiance. The hotel was a bargain ($85 a night for a suite on the 18th floor), but the construction gave us cause for concern... well done repairs shouldn't look like amateur patch jobs. Alexander swears he could feel the building swaying in the wind. Add cardboard towels and no hot water to the mix and we couldn't wait to get out of there the next day. Yep, I guess we are spoiled after the cruise.

The beautiful view from our balcony belies construction concerns.

For about $70, you can hire a taxi for four hours and see the major attractions. We had lunch at El Mirador, where the famed divers attract a crowd at 1:00 p.m. every afternoon. There are also illuminated performances in the evening.


The mosaic mural at Diego Rivera's former home is still spectacular, years after he created it.

From the Chapel of the Cross at Las Brisas, an American celebrity enclave, you can see the panorama of city.


This monument at the chapel, "Las Manos de la Humanidad" (the Hands of Humanity), reminds us that we have much in common with people the world over.

~ Lisa

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Punta Arenas, Costa Rica... or Not

The Island Princess docked at dawn and began disembarkation at 7:30 a.m. Although Punta Arenas is becoming a popular beach resort town, we opted for a day-long excursion to the capitol, San Jose, a beautiful colonial city.

On the way to San Jose we passed the cathedral in Grecia, Costa Rica, a beautifully maintained building.

The ox cart is a national symbol in Costa Rica. This is an example of an intricately painted ox cart at the Fabrica de Carretas (Ox Cart Factory), established in 1903.

Artisans at the factory paint wagon wheels to be sold as souvenirs.


San Jose's Teatro Nacional (National Theater), over 100 years old,  is a beautifully restored building modeled after the opera house in Paris, France.

Costa Rica contains 5% of the world's plant and animal species, although it consists of only .03 percent of the earth's landmass.  It is home to about  1,250 species of butterflies and 894 species of birds.


Costa Rica is a safe country with no armed forces.

Costa Ricans, a friendly people, are nicknamed "ticos" and "ticas."
~Lisa


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The Panama Canal and Fuerte Amador

The 50-mile journey through the Panama Canal began at 4:45 a.m. and continued for most of the day. The trek from the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean took us through a series of three sets of locks. The first are the Gatun locks, consisting of a triple flight from the Caribbean Sea to Gatun Lake.  We then we went through a single flight at Pedro Miguel, and a two-step flight at Miraflores. Our ship was raised from sea level to the level of Gatun Lake as it proceeded through the locks. We then sailed the channel through the Continental Divide, accompanied by a pilot boat.

Before going through the last two sets of locks, we passed under the Centennial Bridge, striking in its architectural design and inaugurated in 2004 to relieve some of the traffic on the Bridge of the Americas, built in 1964.  The latter is a trans America bridge with a road over it that begins in Panama City and goes all the way to Canada. The only way to get to South America after Panama City is by plane. The Pan American Highway stops in Panama and starts again in Colombia. You can read the interesting story of one couple's journey in Las Americas,  on our blogroll.  This is the account of friends, Sharon and Jack's journey from the tip of North America to the bottom of South America.... in the company of their cat, Amadeus, and dog, Ewok, both 15 years old. What an adventure! But I digress...

The Panama Canal is truly an engineering wonder that has had a tremendous impact on shipping, saving time and money. It provides an alternate to the dangerous route via the Drake Passage and Cape Horn. A ship traveling from NYC to San Francisco via the Panama Canal travels 6,000 miles in comparison to 14,000 miles going the route around Cape Horn. Now we can scratch crossing the Panama Canal off our bucket list! It's an amazing experience we will want to repeat some day.

At approximately 4:00p.m., we anchored off of  Fuerte Amador (Fort Amador), adjacent to Panama City.  We were surprised by the Panama City skyline, striking in its array of condominium skyscrapers, some 84 stories high. We booked an excursion through Princess to see Panama City by night. It pays to book tours online early as I did... space was very limited and we heard of many disappointed passengers unable to go on either of the two excursions offered. Disembarkation was not the unpleasant experience I anticipated. We spent very little time waiting in line... to disembark, to board our tender, or to get on the tour bus. It was well-organized and we were on shore by 4:45 p.m.

We disembarked early enough to see some of Panama City by day and night. What we were able to see was worth it: Casco Viejo,  the colonial Panama city (a World Heritage site), the business district,  the Museo Antropológico, and Paseo Las Bóvedas where the Christmas festivities were being initiated with numerous displays, nativity scenes, the lighting of an enormous tree, and fireworks.  Our tour guide was good: a British expatriate named Julian who was very knowledgeable about his new country.

Getting ready to enter the Gatun locks, our pilot boat pulls back and the mules get ready.

 
The mules are now attached to the ship.

The view from the stern (rear of ship) at Miralflores locks.


Looking back at Centennial Bridge.

We are almost to the Pacific... passing under the Bridge of the Americas.

The Panama City skyline from our balcony.

The Altar de Oro (golden altar) at the Iglesia de San Jose has a unique history. It was one of our stops in the Historic District.


The Kuna Indians create beautiful tapestries called molas, which are seen here at the artesan market.


~Lisa

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Ocho Rios: So, where are the rivers?

As a Spanish-speaker, I was intrigued to understand why the Jamaican town of Ocho Rios was so named... after all, it means "Eight Rivers."  In researching its history, I learned there are not eight rivers in the town. Ocho Rios got its name from a misunderstanding between two cultures. According to local history, back in 1657 the British fought a battle with a Spanish expedition that had made its way from Cuba. The site of the battle was Dunn's River Falls, which the Spanish called "chorreros" meaning river rapids. The English did not understand the Spanish term and called it "ocho rios" because it sounds similar enough, and the name stuck.

Once a fishing village, Ocho Rios now has a population of about 100,000. It's a thriving tourist town that is a frequent stop for cruise ships. The deep-water pier can berth three cruise ships at a time. If like us, you land here because it's a port of call on your cruise, you will want to maximize your time. Of note is Dunn's River Falls... a spectacular waterfall that provides great photo ops from endless vantage points. If you are up to it, hike to the top of the slippery falls with your guide, or climb up the adjacent rustic stone staircase.

Ocho Rios has something for everybody... for a price, of course. Choose from Coyaba Gardens, horseback riding, the Sky Explorer chairlift,  golf, the Chukka Cove Farm canopy experience (zip lining), jeep tours, exploring the Green Grotto caves, kayaking from Laughing Waters Lagoon to James Bond Beach, river rafting on the Martha Brae River, and much more.

Interested in shopping? An American dollar converts to about 89 Jamaican dollars and getting spending money is easy at an ATM. Most Jamaican vendors will accept American dollars but give you change in JD.  The local craft centers offer an array of goods, from mass-produced items to individually hand-carved wooden figures. Bob Marley and "rasta" figures abound, as well as beaded necklaces, tee-shirts, sandals, and typical touristy souvenirs like key chains. Although, I enjoyed looking at the interesting array of crafts, I've out-grown the desire to shop for souvenirs on every trip -- in my case, they end up as soon-to-be dust-catchers. Downsizing has a way of making you see with new eyes all the STUFF we've collected over the years. My favorite "souvenir" now is a digital photo.

Be prepared for very aggressive vendors at the Dunn River Falls Park craft markets... we were warned by our guide that when vendors place a necklace on a tourist, they expect payment even if they tell you it's "free." If you want spirits or wine, we recommend Cruise Booze, just outside the cruise ship dock. They have the best selection and prices. Stay away from Jablum, where they will charge more then two times as much for the same bottle of rum available at Cruise Booze.  One disappointment for us: Margaritaville, where we went for lunch. Apart from the good music, the service was very poor, the menu overpriced, and the food cold. We should have stuck to a place frequented by the locals, but we were tired and hungry and it was close by.

For the residents of Ocho Rios, tourism is an important source of employment and revenue. Ocho Rios would be a good place to rest and relax for a few weeks if you enjoy beautiful, fairly clean beaches.  The locals are friendly and helpful, and we enjoyed the informative tour by our knowledgeable and entertaining guide, Lovelyn.

Cuba as seen from the balcony.


The pilot boat at Ocho Rios assists anchoring our ship.


Ocho Rios at 10:00 a.m. is hot and humid, but overcast.




This enterprising fire eater at Coyaba Gardens will expect a tip.

Locals and tourists alike will take the challenge of climbing the falls.


At the top of the falls after the climb.

The pristine beach where the falls feed the ocean.

~ Lisa

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Recent Entries

  1. Trek to the Sunshine State: Everglades
    Tuesday, March 09, 2010
  2. Le Cirque is in Town!
    Thursday, February 18, 2010
  3. Las Capuchinas, Antigua, Guatemala
    Monday, February 15, 2010
  4. The Elephant Seals of Año Nuevo
    Saturday, February 13, 2010
  5. Visiting NYC in winter
    Wednesday, February 10, 2010
  6. Whale Tales
    Sunday, January 31, 2010
  7. The Journey Up the Central American Coast to Mexico
    Tuesday, December 29, 2009
  8. Punta Arenas, Costa Rica... or Not
    Saturday, December 19, 2009
  9. The Panama Canal and Fuerte Amador
    Tuesday, December 15, 2009
  10. Ocho Rios: So, where are the rivers?
    Sunday, December 13, 2009

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